Kyoji
The Story
Tamiya Raden has pioneered the creation of a new form of textiles which integrate natural materials such as silk, sea shells, lacquer, wood and leather. This blend of history, environment, and traditions taught by the masters has given birth to these techniques. The company believes that it is their appointed mission to develop this original technology into a legitimate tradition.
“What if we could make textiles out of seashells?” Around 1977, Shoichiro, a weaver in Tango, was captivated by this idea. Not long before, he had received an order that asked him to weave real butterflies into fabric. While searching for a way to express this, he found himself fascinated with the mother-of-pearl inlay treasures he saw at an exhibition. As his workshop was located near the sea, shells were easy to obtain, and after two years of experimentation finally succeeded.
This inlay weaving technique is unique to the world. His original designs have transcended the boundaries of Japanese kimono, and he is now expanding his activities overseas with Western-style fabric. Luxury brands, which are now increasing their value by carefully selecting raw materials, are trying to differentiate themselves by adding more value. But it is not enough to simply take high quality Japanese products overseas. It is vital to adapt to differences in tastes and customs, such as patterns, colors, and the width of the fabric to be tailored for Western wear.
Shoichiro’s native Tango region is the largest producer of high-grade chirimen crêpe silk in Japan for kimono. However, as Kyoto is generally associated with kimono, Tango tends to be perceived as a subcontractor. Shoichiro says that he would like to break away from this stereotype and in the future hopes to make Tango a textile production area that the world will recognize. People from overseas fashion houses in Paris, New York, and Switzerland are gradually starting to visit Tango. He feels it is worthwhile for visitors to see a variety of workshops with different characteristics within the same production area.
The Craft
For 1300 years the Tango region has served as a center of traditional silk weaving, closely associated with the traditional Japanese culture of kimono. The Tango district faces the Sea of Japan and its natural scenery still retains the flavor of ancient Japan. This natural environment and climate is necessary for textile production, and the character of the residents has been passed on from generation to generation. It was this history, climate, and traditions that brought seashells and textiles together, leading to the birth to Shoichiro’s innovative technique, which he hopes to establish as a solid tradition.
The raden technique and a traditional Japanese weaving method were fused to create a completely new methodology. Shell is sliced and laminated on handmade Japanese paper which is woven as threads for textiles to emulate the glisten and sparkle of the sea. Currently, 90% of the raden weave is obi for kimono. Elaborate ones take about a month to manufacture, fetching a price as high as 20000 US dollars. A great many fashion enthusiasts have been enchanted by these obi, including the Empress Emerita several times during public events.
Besides textiles and obi, the company also uses their fabrics to create bracelets, wallets, and cases for business cards.
Selected works
